| Author | Message | ||
     samh Rating: N/A |
I recently bought a pair of I-Glasses SVGA 3D goggles. I have owned the Sony Glasstron PLM-S700 and the Cy-Visor DH-4400VP, both SVGA 2D goggles. Image Quality: The I-Glasses are somewhere between the Sony(better) and the Cy-Visor(worse.) About 85% of the screen is in sharp focus at any one time depending on where on my head the goggles are positioned. I used to run the cy-visor with the IPD adjustment (which the I-glasses don't have, and I don't miss) all the way to one side. Perhaps I have a weird head, and your display will be more in focus. I called tech support at IO and they said this focus problem is due to the placement of goggles on the head. Very important to run the display at 800x600 at 60Hz refresh, as at any other refresh, the display is washed out. In 3D mode, I have been able to bump the display up to 85hz, which eliminates most of the flickering. (Aside: I am using a dell inspiron laptop, though with a quadro4 card from a Latitude M50. Can't seem to get the display to go up to 100hz+. Anyone have a .inf file for the i-glasses?) Wearability: Better than both other displays. The Cy-Visor patently stink, the hinge was very loose after a few months use, and the display used to pivot away from my head when I looked around. The glasstron had that neat see through lcd feature which I _Never_ used and don't miss on the I-Glasses. Though if you were doing AR then that might be usefull. Price: I paid 625, seen them as low as 550us, new. Compared to Cy-Visor 2D at 999 and 3D at 1750, you can't beat it. Glasstron are no longer manufactured, but sell for around 2k if you can find them on ebay. 3D: This is more an issue of the graphics card and drivers than the display. I have been able to see some different things in 3d, the nvidia test images, and some openGL apps downloaded from the web. Supposedly I will be able to play quake3 in 3d with my nvida card, and am looking forward to that.) Had to use some leaked nvidia drivers and setup was basically a nightmare since I am using a laptop. Email me if you want details (samhalperin@att.net) (Aside: if anyone has been able to get q3 to go in 3d mode please send me an email with instructions, the more detailed the better. samhalperin@att.net) Form factor: Both the cy-visor and the glasstron had external interface boxes. The vga goes from the computer to the box. Then the box connects to the goggles. Sound goes from the computer to the box with a separate wire. The I-Glasses bypass all these box shenanigans and just connect with a wire bundle that plugs into power, vga and sound. This would be a drawback if you were trying to use a non-vga signal such as dvd or something, as you would have to use a converter. Or I suppose just get a dvd drive for your computer. The I-Glasses do get a little warm. There must be a transformer inside the goggles themselves, as there is no wall wart. Though oddly, the glasses are cold when off, and in my experience wall warts are warm even when the device is off. So some magic of engineering there. Calibration: The on screen menus are easy to use, accessed from buttons on the top of the goggles, unlike on the interface boxes of the other displays. I prefer this because the goggles are already on your head and you know how they are oriented. The interface boxes can be pointed in whatever direction, so I knever knew which was the up and which was the down button. Field of view: The glasstron and Cy-visor are advertised at around 30 degrees diagonal, while the I-Glasses are advertised at 26.5 degrees. To tell the truth I don't really notice a difference. Particularly compared to the cy-visor, the focus issues of the CV sort of turn a larger FOV into a smaller useable canvas. Retail: I bought mine from cyberworld online through an e-bay buy it now auction. Very prompt and reasonable shipping. Would deal with Stewart again in a heartbeat. Email any questions to samhalperin@att.net or post here. Sam | ||
| Anonymous Rating: N/A |
When you get the 3-d working tell me how it is over using LCD shutter glasses. I'v only used shutter glasses and wanted to know if an HMD makes 3d better and is the gosting(double image seen with shutter glasses) 100% gone with an HMD ? | ||
| Anonymous Rating: N/A |
Sam, Nice review but what do you mean no wall wart? I've got a bloody big hunk of a transformer at the other end of the power cord. I would be very nervous with 100-230 volts circling my noggin. Btw, IO told me that 85 Hz refresh is the rated max input signal the unit supports. Some units can go higher but they will be operating out of spec. -M | ||
| samh Rating: N/A |
"I've got a bloody big hunk of a transformer at the other end of the power cord. I would be very nervous with 100-230 volts circling my noggin. " hmm.. never thought of that. Mine just connect right to the wall without a transformer. "Btw, IO told me that 85 Hz refresh is the rated max input signal the unit supports. Some units can go higher but they will be operating out of spec." To quote the manual that came with mine: "TroubleShooting And Faqs:... Problem: The image flickers in 3D mode:... Alternatively reset the refresh rate on your computer to a minimum of 8gHz, preferably 100Hz or higher..." The flickering is all but gone at 85Hz, but I want to see what it looks like at 100. Sam | ||
| Anonymous Rating: N/A |
"hmm.. never thought of that. Mine just connect right to the wall without a transformer." Wow, I don't think something like that is legal in Europe. I've got the European model and it comes with an external transformer that puts out 9 volts DC. "The flickering is all but gone at 85Hz, but I want to see what it looks like at 100." At 100 Hz the image seems a little brighter, although I find 85 Hz ok, too. Try power cycling the unit a few times in the 100 Hz mode. Sometimes it doesn't sync properly on the first try. -M | ||
| samh Rating: N/A |
CORRECTION: Regarding wall wart. I think I was a little tired when I wrote the review. There is in fact a 'wall wart' transformer that plugs into the cable for the i-glasses. Sam | ||
| KuDawg Rating: N/A |
Hey peeps!!! I had a prob win win98sec, couldn't get the the glasses or stereo3d test to go above 90 hertz, windows was set for 100 but wouldn't do it in nvidia's stereo setup, so I put this on my winxp and 100 was there, I get no flickering at all, some games do 3d better then others, like SOF2, it sucks pretty much, I thought the shutter glasses were alittle better besides the ghosting you get, now quake3 looks good but ajusting is needed with f5 key making it almost seeing the gun in the middle then ajust stereo depth, Unreal Tourny2003 was the bomb!!!! A beauty to see, compaired to shutter glasses like the REVE's I have, for the money HOW can you go wrong.. No ghosting, well I did see alittle in Castle Wolf, no lie!! But your gonna spend money on a monitor and then shutter glasses, so for a few more I'd say pretty good investment, IF you get a good PAIR, I still don't know about mine.. One thing I'd like is a longer power supply.... Ku | ||
| ku Rating: N/A |
Anyone know where I can get a pair of rubber tear-drop eye cups? I've been serching but really can't find a place... | ||
| Anonymous Rating: N/A |
You mean like the ones you find on camcorders? You maybe can do a web search? |
