| Author | Message | ||
     Anonymous Rating: N/A |
Hello, is anybody using the silverfabric screen to be found on www.silverfabric.com? Any usability-report would be very nice before throwing money out of the window. thx | ||
| Thomas Porrmann Rating: |
The technical expertise of our material is of Dr. Yitzhak Weissman and it is supported by Christie Digital Systems. Are there really more arguments neccesary? I guess, for the silverfabric, we have the best of them!;o) cheers -Thomas Porrmann | ||
| Jacob Rating: |
Yes I use and love it, best tested material ever seen. Jacob | ||
| Alatar Rating: N/A |
I seem to remember someone recently posting about a rear-projection screen material that retains polarization (i.e. can be used for rear projection with polarized glasses). Does anyone happen to remember the post, what the material was, and / or the name of the manufacturer? Has anyone tested it to see how well it works? | ||
| Kate Addo Rating: N/A |
I have tried it, and it doesn't compare to my own home-made screen. I built this on my livingroom floor, and was done in no time at all. The frame is easy, the material is cheap, and the painting was fun. All in all, this whole screen cost me under $40. to build. It works perfectly for regular projection, showing a slight 3D effect, and of course, works Fabulously with 3D anaglyph glasses. I watch all my TV, DVDs, and Videos in 3D now! Below is what I did..... Pay special attention to the paint. This is they key to the gain, and getting the reflection perfect. ------------------------------------------------- 1... I measured the projection image size on the wall I wanted to hang it on 2... from my local building supplier, I bought cheap 2"X 2" wood,(make sure it's not warped, and get the cheapest, lightest weight wood they have) cut to the size of my projected image (added 1.5" to each length for image adjustment) 3... bought good metal corner securers to put the wood together as a frame (I used flat metal corners and screwed them onto the wood at each corner) 4... from WalMart, I bought (for $1/yd on the close-out, sale shelves) rubber-backed, light-grey, curtain backing material, making sure it was wide enough to cover the shorter height of my frame, (adding about 3 or more inches to the overall finished size of the screen to allow for the wrapping and securing of the material over the frame) then took it home and ironed it to get rid of the fold mark in the middle 5... used my staple gun to stretch and apply the material (rubberized side facing back so the cloth side will be to the front, viewing side) over the front of the frame, (making sure the metal corner securers are at the back of the frame) starting from the center of the frame on each side, and stretching as I went to the outer corners, stapling on the inside of the wood, on the back of the frame... make sure your material is as tight as a drum without warping your frame, and has no wrinkles... this is easy to do if you work from the centers of each side out to the corners evenly, starting with the top side and bottom side, working alternately, before starting with the left and right sides of the frame. Once you have the top and bottom secured, start working the left and right sides in the same way till you have it tight, even, and wrinkle-free. 6... bought a cheap roller with a very short brush surface. (don't get the long fluffy type, or the foam type) The long haired, or fluffy rollers tend to glop the paint on so it won't dry nice and smooth, and foam rollers tend to slide rather than roll the paint onto the surface when working on cloth. Be sure your roller is as wide as you can find. The wider the better, so be sure the roller-pan you get fits the width of your roller ************************************************* 7... (NOW THIS IS THE IMPORTANT PART TO GET THE CORRECT, SILVER/PEARL BALANCE, AND TO MAKE SURE THE SURFACE IS FLAT, WITH NO ROLLER MARKS TO CREATE UNEVEN REFLECTION) from WalMart, in the hobby section, I bought: 2 - 8 fl oz bottles of "Delta Ceramcoat" GLEAMS acrylic paint - Metallic Silver 02603 8 - 1 fl oz bottles of "PolyMark" White Pearl Iridescent - PM 301 (Dimensional Fabric and Craft Paint Pen) then from a local paint store, I bought: 1 quart of "Flood" - "Floetrol" latex paint conditioner to slow down the drying time of the paint so it settles flat 8... I poured ALL the silver and pearl paints together, with about half of the bottle (approx 1 pint) of the Floetrol, into a large bowl and stirred it up to produce the pearlized, silver paint for my screen, then poured this mixture into my roller-pan 9... with the framed screen lying flat on newspaper on the livingroom floor, I proceeded to roll the paint on to the cloth, being careful not to make any areas thicker, and continued this untill I felt the cloth was completely saturated with the paint, and it looked good and thick, and even. (I used my wooden broom-handle screwed onto the roller for the reach) 10... the latex paint conditioner slowed the drying so much, that by the time it was dry,(by the next morning) the paint had leveled itself out to be a pefectly flat surface with no bubbles, paint lines or roller marks ************************************************* 11... bought two screw-in hooks and eyes, screwed the eyes onto the wall after carefully leveling, and measuring the distance between the hooks I had screwed onto the top of the screen so they would line up well, and being sure they would center the screen for the projected image, then hung the screen up to try it out - the screen is so light, that I can hold it with one finger! ------------------------------------------------ I have tried so many different screens and material, and finally gave up on them. The paint mixture took me 27 times to get it right (some of those times were trying spray paint -DON'T TRY SPRAY PAINT - it blotches, no matter how much you work at it, and the colors just won't work anyway) The Silver and Pearl mixture was another story of trial and error, but believe me, this mixture I have given you will produce the BEST Image you will find - better than any silver screen out there, because it mixes the pearl luminence with the silver reflective quality, and the slight matt of this particular paint avoids the flash-back reflection, giving the perfect depth for gain, giving vewing at all angles perfection. The premade screen materials or full screens only address one or the other, but this mixture addresses them all, combining all the different silver-screen and pearl-screen attributes into one screen for your home enjoyment. When mine was done and hanging, I signed it as though it was a painted work of art. *chuckle* Well, it is! Good luck, and have fun =) Kate | ||
| Anonymous Rating: N/A |
Hello Kate, After doing the homemade screen thing a few times I've found that using a more expensive hardwood (birch, poplar) there is a better chance of getting a strait piece than with pine. It's also less likely to warp with time. I use 1x3 birch. I've tried both a roller and paint gun, neither of which gave me an acceptable result. What works best for me is to use 2 parts Behr Silverscreen paint, 1 part Flotrol, and 1 part water . I hang the screen in the garage then I spray it with a $13 paint gun. Then using a dry roller I roll it into the fabric, working about a 3 foot square section at a time. After each coat dries I lightly sand it to smooth out the surface. I put on four coats with the last coat left unsanded. I have yet to do a screen for passive stereo But would like to try your home-brew mix. Just in case you want a bigger screen there is 110" wide BO cloth available at several websites although I use Muslin (cheaper). John | ||
| Klaus Peters (Klauspeter) New member Username: Klauspeter Post Number: 1 Registered: 4-2010 Rating: N/A |
Got the SilverFabric Screen last week, bought it with amazon.de. It´s an easy to handle stuff with great 3D performance. I´m really satisfied. klaus |
