| Author | Message | ||
     Muthaga Rating: N/A |
I've been looking all over for a tutorial on how to convert 2D images to stereoscopic ones, but all I find is offers for people to do it for you, for a lot of money. I've also tried Stereoscopic Image Converter, but can't quite get the hang of it. Basically I want to do some of my drawings in stereo, and any suggestions are appreciated. | ||
| Tyler Rating: N/A |
I use Paint Shop Pro 5. First a copy the picture I am working on, so I have two identical pictures side by side. Then I select the "freehand" option with selection type "Point to Point". Then I trace around the object I want to come out of the screen(in only one of the copies). After all the point to point lines are connected, I click and drag and object slightly left or right. Then I use the "clone brush" to cover up the area that was underneath the object. That creates the stereo pair. I either use DepthCharge to make it viewable with shutterglasses or I use the Channel Splitting/Combining features of Paint Shop Pro 5 for an anaglyph picture. The effect looks kind of like a cardboard cut-out, but at least it has some depth. You can also cut out smaller points in the already shifted object to make them stick out even more. I could do it for you for free, but don't expect as good quality as the professionals. | ||
| Anonymous Rating: N/A |
Here we go, shamelessy stolen from a egroups.com thing: ------------------- Hi All, Here is the NSA Anaglyph & 2D to 3D workshopw handout text. It's basic, meant to be "built on" as you practice, and maybe come up with things that make more sense to you... =) Let me know if it brings up any questions. Dan ------------------- ANAGLYPH WORKSHOP - NSA Y2K - DAN SHELLEY A very easy way to make anaglyphs (and many other 3D formats) is to use a program called Stereo Image Factory by Dave Harvey. http://members.aol.com/threedr/ Stop by and tell him I sent you if you decide to give it a try. (OR - get a trial version on one of my 3D-CDs!) =) (BTW - if you have the first 3D-CD, Dave will still give you the discount mentioned there off the price of the latest version of his GREAT program!) - - - - - Generic instructions on how to manually create anaglyphs: * Load you left image in RGB (Red, Green, Blue) format. * Load you right image in RGB (Red, Green, Blue) format. * Convert both images to Grayscale. * Convert both images back to RGB. (They will now look like black and white photos, but will be made up of RGB color information.) * Split the RGB parts of the left image. * Copy the R (Red) part of the left image. * Recombine the RGB parts of the left image. * Split the RGB parts of the Right image. * Paste the R (Red) part of the left image over the R (red) part of the right image. (if you are using software that lets you set transparency, set it to 50% and while you can see both images, move the overlaid/pasted image around to align the images. Then reset the transparency to zero so that you only see the pasted image.) * Recombine the RGB parts of the right image. * You now have an anaglyph. Trim off any extra "junk" left on the edges by misalignment of the two images. * Enjoy! - - - - - A way to create true 3D stereo pair images from a single 2D image: 1. Scan or otherwise load the 2D image into your computer, bring it on screen in your paint program, Tweak it, crop it, or whatever else you usually do then... 2. Using the tip of the "paint" brush or some other drawing or marking tool provided by the paint program put a small 1-pixel size reference dot, black or white in color (not blue, red, or green) somewhere on the image -- somewhere easy to see and can be later removed. More on this below. 3. Load the 2D image with the reference dot into Stereo Factory as "both" the left and right eye views. Then select View, Real-Time Preview. What you'll see is the beginning of an anaglyph but without any 3D effect. 4. Remaining in Real-Time mode slowly tap your "left" arrow key three times. You'll see it separate the left/right eye views by 3-pixels. Save this image, let's say, as X3.bmp. 5. Return to Real-Time mode and repeat the process--save again as X6, then a few more taps and save as X9. If you get confused or lose count you can "reset the alignment" and start over counting the key taps. 6. In this simple 3-level example you'll end up with 3-copies of the original 2D photo, each an anaglyph of sorts, each giving the illusion of greater depth/distance, but none of which, alone, really look 3D. 7. Portions of X3 go in the foreground, X6 middle ground and X9 as the background. For even greater depth and 3D effect you can make a 12 to 14 pixel shot for outdoors -- sky. Often I create 7 - 8 planes or levels in Stereo Factory before returning to the paint program. 8. Now the fun begins as you put all 3 pictures together using the clone brush in your paint program. 9. Bring up X3 and X6 side-by-side on your paint program screen. Using PS Pro I would reduce the clone brush to 1-pixel in size, carefully right mouse click on the white reference dot in the 3-pixel copy (source) then left mouse click on the white dot in the 6-pixel copy (target). The clone brush is now "aligned" to both images. Increase the size of your clone bush to 5-10-15 pixels -- whatever, and paint the foreground elements of X3 into X6. 9. Next, put X9 next to X6. Again, align the clone brush then clone-paint in the background. Remove that reference dot, and you're finished. 10. With a steady hand and a little practice you'll see beautiful results. ------------------------ Good Luck! Upload some of the pix on this board.... |
